In her charming French-accented English, Emily Nacher is describing how making sparkling wine is like surgery.
“It has to be clean and precise and done with skill and passion,” explained the manager of wine tourism at the Vitteaut-Alberti sparkling wine house with a laugh.
I’m nodding along while I sip the Cuvee Agnes Blanc de Blanc Brut as if I’m a surgeon and sparkling winemaker.
Of course, I’m neither, but I do love myself a glass of Cremant de Bourgogne, the sparkling wines made in Burgundy, France mostly of Chardonnay and-or Pinot Noir.
(In English it’s Burgundy, in French – Bourgogne).
Photo credits: Steve MacNaull/NowMedia GroupEmily Nacher is the manager of wine tourism at the Vitteaut-Alberti Cremant de Bourgogne sparkling wine house in Nully, France.
By the way, the Blanc de Blanc Brut is fresh, mineraly and creamy backed up by delicate, long-lasting bubbles.
I’ve sought out this side visit to Vitteaut-Alberti in Rully from the itinerary of the Grand Jours de Bourgogne to get a sparkling fix.
Vitteaut-Alberti, founded in 1951, is in a modern building – a real departure from most of the other wineries in the region, which tend to look like castles and manor houses.
The newly rebranded interior has a bright and bubbly decor to go with its sparkling wine persona.
In all, Vitteaut-Alberti makes nine different Cremant de Bourgogne sparkling wines.
I also taste the delicious Cuvee Dany Rose, which is when winery CEO Sandie Deboissy drops by to tell me that pink bubbles really isn’t a trend in France, yet it is big-time in North America.
However, a universal trend is the upward trajectory of sparkling wine around the world as the age 18-to-35 crowd embraces sparkling wine as an affordable indulgence.
“Why not drink luxury every time?” asked Deboissy.
“The pop of a sparkling wine cork means fun with family and friends.”
By the way, the Dany Rose has aromas and flavours of strawberry, pink grapefruit and fresh-baked croissants – again backed by fine, persistent bubbles.
Photo credit: Nocolas TacquardWine columnist Steve MacNaull with Vitteaut-Alberti’s Sandie Deboissy.
Ironically, Deboissy thanks Champagne and Prosecco for the rising popularity of Cremant de Bourgogne.
“Champagne is expensive and affordable Prosecco lead the rise in popularity of sparkling wines,” she explained.
“Prosecco seems to have had its moment and now Cremant de Bourgogne is moving in to have its moment.”
In 2010, Cremant de Bourgogne accounted for just 6% of the wine production in Burgundy.
Now, it’s up to 12% with still white (mostly Chardonnay) at 61% and still red (mostly Pinot Noir) with 27%.
Cremant de Bourgogne is made in the same quality method as Champagne with secondary fermentation in the bottle (the one that creates the bubbles of the sparkling).
Yet, a bottle of Cremant is about a third of the price of a bottle of Champagne.
The moral of the story here is to visit Burgundy if you can and drink the bubbly.
And, if you can’t make the trip overseas, at least make a trip to your local liquor store to pick up a bottle of Cremant and enjoy as if you are in Burgundy.
Air Canada to France
If you decide a trip is in order, Air Canada is the best way to get to Burgundy.
It flies non-stop from both Toronto and Montreal to Paris, which is a two-hour train ride from Beaune in the heart of Burgundy wine country.
Air Canada also flies non-stop Montreal to Lyon, which is an hour-and-a-half train from Beaune.
As well, Air Canada flies from Montreal to three other French cities – Nice, Toulouse and Nantes, which all have surrounding wine regions.
Check out https://bourgogne-evasion.
Summer wine fest at SilverStar
Head up the mountain this weekend for cooler air, awesome views and fantastic wines.
SilverStar Mountain Resort near Vernon has its annual Summer Wine Festival on Saturday, 1 pm to 6 pm, outdoors in the village centre.
At least 15 wineries will be pouring samples, there will be cheese and paella to pair it with and live music from Kailee Duggan.
There's even the opportunity to ride the gondola to the top and enjoy the view with a glass of sparkling wine from Summerhill Pyramid Winery.
Tickets are $75 here.
Steve MacNaull is a NowMedia Group reporter, Okanagan wine lover and Canadian wine scholar. Reach him at smacnaull@nowmediagroup.ca. His wine column appears every Friday afternoon in this space
